My first impression of Beppu was not comfort, but presence . Shortly after arrival, a faint sulfur smell followed me, while white steam rose from street corners, walls, and rooftops, as if the city were constantly exhaling. Beppu felt “unhealthy” —not in a negative sense, but like a body with a persistent low-grade fever, continuously steaming, always in motion. For a 2-day, 1-night trip to Beppu, most travelers try to cram all seven hells into one day. After walking the rout